Set up your dwarf rabbit's new home as a large exercise pen or a large cage (the bigger the better). Provide a litter box, with wood pellets or non-clumping cat litter.
2
Give your dwarf rabbit access to plenty of fresh hay at all times. Dwarf rabbits under 6 months can have unlimited pellets, while those over 6 months should be given 1/4 cup of pellets each day.
3
Give your dwarf rabbit a minimum of 2 cups of vegetables per day. You also can give him a small baby carrot or a small piece of banana or apple daily as a treat.
4
Provide your house rabbit with plenty of toys, such as old phone books and toilet paper rolls (ideal for chewing) and plastic baby keys.
5
Give your rabbit a box that she can hide in, climb on and chew. Boxes are an ideal place to hide when a rabbit is scared, and they are a great source of entertainment.
6
Ensure your rabbit has at least four hours of exercise time out of his cage or pen each day. Make sure phone wires, computer wires and other wires are out of reach before you let your bunny out. Dwarf rabbits, like all rabbits, love to chew.
7
Make an appointment with a rabbit-savvy vet to have your rabbit spayed or neutere
Prune dwarf cherry trees in early spring to promote strong branch growth during the growing season. Mentally divide the tree into thirds and work from the bottom up.
2
Put on gloves to protect your hands. Clip away shoots and suckers from the bottom third of the trunk with short-handled pruning shears. These shoots will sap energy from the tree and will never produce fruit if you leave them alone, especially in the first three years of the tree's life.
3
Cut away limbs from the top two-thirds of the dwarf cherry with long-handled pruning shears. Prune branches that cross or rub each other and densely growing branches, leaving six ot seven laterally growing "scaffold" branches springing from a central leader. This will ensure that light and air can penetrate the canopy of the tree, resulting in more fruit and healthier foliage.
4
Prune for maintenance after the third year. Clip off vertically growing shoots from the top two-thirds of the scaffold branches in early spring and again in fall. These shoots and suckers will crowd the canopy and keep light and air from circulating freely.
5
Cut the top one-third of the central leader (the tallest branch at the center of the tree) with long-handled pruning shears to control the height of the dwarf cherry tree and encourage lateral growth of the scaffold branches.
6
Cut branches and limbs into manageable pieces and discard in yard waste bags.
Purchase a 4- to 8-foot seedling tree from your local nursery or garden center. Although cherry trees can be grown from seed, the success rate is better in Ontario if you start with a seedling or small tree. Also, trees purchased at a local nursery are likely to be from the area and can grow in your USDA hardiness zone.
2
Dig a hole three times as deep and wide as the root ball on your cherry tree. You will have to amend the soil around the roots, so a larger hole is necessary.
3
Amend the soil by mixing in compost and rich soil. Be sure to mix it in well and fill the hole to the depth of the root ball with the amended soil.
4
Remove the tree from its plastic container if it is plastic or cut slits in a peat container. Gently place the root ball in the hole and add soil to the depth the tree was planted in the nursery.
5
Fill in the rest of the hole with your dirt and compost mixture, lightly packing the soil around the tree and its roots. Do not pack the soil down too hard or the roots can be damaged or suffocate.
6
Saturate the newly planted tree with water. Water it frequently to ensure the roots grow and spread.
7
Add a fertilizer spike during the first three years of growth after the tree is established.
Growth
Pests
Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball, and slightly shallower than the root ball's height. Add a layer of sand or pea gravel to the bottom of the hole. This allows for better drainage. Plant in early spring.
2
Set the tree into the hole. The top of the root ball should set about 2 to 3 inches above ground level. If burlap is covering the root ball, carefully cut it away and push it down into the hole. Disturb the roots as little as possible.
3
Fill the hole about 2/3 with garden soil and water thoroughly. Add a layer of fertilizer. Fill in the rest of the hole with gardening soil and water again.
4
Put a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree, keeping it 1 to 2 inches away from the trunk. If it is piled up against the trunk, the mulch may cause tree rot. Spread the mulch out to edges of the branches. this helps to keep grass and weeds from growing under the tree.
5
Water your newly planted tree with about 1 inch of water each week. Watering well at the beginning helps to establish the tree. After a year, can cut back on the amount of water.
6
Fertilize in early spring and again in late fall with a balanced fertilizer. After planting and adding fertilizer to the hole, it is not necessary to fertilize again until the following year.
Plant your weeping tree in a full-sun location in your garden or home landscape that receives six or more hours of direct sunlight each day and offers loose, well-draining soil that is rich with organic material. Plant the tree so that its crown is level with the surrounding soil. Avoid planting the crown too deep or you increase your tree's chance of developing root rot.
2
Water your weeping tree directly after planting to moisten the tree's root system. Continue to water the weeping tree frequently to maintain consistently moist soil. Determine when to water by checking the soil moisture; water your weeping tree when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
3
Fertilize the weeping tree with a balanced, water soluble fertilizer each year in the very early spring. Ensure correct fertilization by following the application instructions on the fertilizer package.
4
Weed the area around your weeping tree regularly to prevent weeds from competing with your tree for moisture and nutrients. Dig up the entire root systems of perennial weeds, if necessary, to prevent them from growing back.
5
Prune your weeping tree in the late winter, while the tree is still dormant. Prune out any diseased, damaged or dead branches and remove any crossing or rubbing branches to increase air circulation to the tree's canopy. Sharpen and sterilize the pruning tools before pruning your weeping tree to prevent the spread of plant disease.
Plant your weeping tree in a full-sun location in your garden or home landscape that receives six or more hours of direct sunlight each day and offers loose, well-draining soil that is rich with organic material. Plant the tree so that its crown is level with the surrounding soil. Avoid planting the crown too deep or you increase your tree's chance of developing root rot.
2
Water your weeping tree directly after planting to moisten the tree's root system. Continue to water the weeping tree frequently to maintain consistently moist soil. Determine when to water by checking the soil moisture; water your weeping tree when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
3
Fertilize the weeping tree with a balanced, water soluble fertilizer each year in the very early spring. Ensure correct fertilization by following the application instructions on the fertilizer package.
4
Weed the area around your weeping tree regularly to prevent weeds from competing with your tree for moisture and nutrients. Dig up the entire root systems of perennial weeds, if necessary, to prevent them from growing back.
5
Prune your weeping tree in the late winter, while the tree is still dormant. Prune out any diseased, damaged or dead branches and remove any crossing or rubbing branches to increase air circulation to the tree's canopy. Sharpen and sterilize the pruning tools before pruning your weeping tree to prevent the spread of plant disease.
Remove the weeds and other vegetation in an area at least three times the size of the root ball. The best time to plant a double weeping cherry tree is in the spring while the tree is still dormant. Pick a site with good drainage and full sun exposure. Amend the soil with 4 inches of compost mixed into the top 12 inches of soil. Plant the tree at the same depth that it was growing in the nursery.
2
Water the growing site thoroughly once a week. Apply water to the soil with a hose for 15 minutes, until the root ball is moist. Keep the area moist during the growing season.
3
Spread 3 inches of leaves, pine bark or pine straw around the base of the double weeping cherry tree. Extend the mulch at least 24 inches beyond the branch line. This reduces soil moisture loss and competition from weeds.
4
Prune away any developing suckers growing below the graft union and the roots with pruners. Suckers will appear growing in a vertical direction instead of weeping towards the ground. Snip the tips of any branches that are actually touching the ground.
5
Feed the double weeping cherry tree after its first year. Scratch 1 to 2 tbsp. of 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer into the soil over the root ball. Water immediately after applying the fertilizer. Feed the tree in March, May and July.
Immediately open the back of your phone and remove the battery. If your phone uses a SIM card, remove that as well.
2
Wipe the surface of the phone dry with a paper towel. Make sure you blot inside the battery compartment. Make sure that you wipe but do not blot when drying the phone screen. Pressing on the screen while blotting can cause damage to it.
3
Use a can of compressed air, like the type sold to clean computer keyboards, to dry any remaining moisture in the phone. Spray the air over the entire phone until you can no longer see any wet areas.
4
Pour a layer of dry rice into the bottom of a bowl. Lay your cell phone on the rice. Completely cover the phone with more dry rice and leave the phone in the bowl overnight. The rice will draw out and absorb any remaining moisture.
5
Remove the phone from the rice. Use compressed air to clean the phone of any rice dust. Put the SIM and battery back in and power the phone on. If the phone does not work or the screen is not showing the menus properly, then you did not dry the phone as fast as you needed to and the phone must be replaced
If you don't have an antenna connected to your FM receiver, purchase a simple dipole antenna--a simple T-shape flexible wire-- and connect it to the FM antenna inputs on the receiver. Because FM signals are directional, you'll want to experiment with the positioning of the wire to find the best reception of the station you're trying to receive.
2
If you're still not getting a good signal, try an indoor amplified antenna, which you'll find at an electronics store. Don't buy one unless you get a guarantee that you can return it for full credit if it doesn't solve your reception problems.
3
If your signal is weak because you live a long way from the transmitter, install an outside antenna and mount it as high as is practical. If you're primarily interested in getting signals from one station or from a group of stations in one direction, get a directional antenna and point it toward the transmitters.
4
If you're using a portable FM radio where the only antenna is the power cord, stretch the cord as straight as possible and experiment with positioning again.
5
Temporarily switch to monaural mode to improve a weak signal on an FM receiver.
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